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As a home gardener, fall should be a very special time for you. Fall is the best season of the year for plant propagation, especially for home gardeners who do not have the luxury of intermittent mist. The technique that I am going to describe here can be equally effective for evergreens as well as many deciduous plants.
The old rule of thumb was to start doing hardwood cuttings of evergreens after you have experienced at least two hard freezes. After two hard freezes the plants are completely dormant.
However, based on my experience it is beneficial to start doing your evergreen cuttings earlier than that. So instead of doing “by the book” hardwood cuttings you’re actually working with semi-hardwood cuttings. The down side to starting your cuttings early is that they will have to be watered daily unless you experience rain showers. The up side is that they will start rooting sooner, and therefore are better rooted when you pull them out to transplant them.
To prepare an area in which to root cuttings you must first select a site. An area that is about 50% shaded will work great. Full sun will work, it just requires that you tend to the cuttings more often. Clear all grass or other vegetation from the area that you have selected. The size of the area is up to you. Realistically, you can fit about one cutting per square inch of bed area. You might need a little more area per cutting, it depends on how close you stick the cuttings in the sand.
Once you have an area cleared off all you have to do is build a wooden frame and lay it on the ground in the area that you cleared. Your frame is a simple as four 2 by 4’s or four 2 by 6’s nailed together at each corner. It will be open on the top and open on the bottom. Just lay it on the ground in the cleared area, and fill it with a coarse grade of sand.
This sand should be clean (no mud or weed seed), and much coarser than the sand used in a play box. Visit your local builders supply center and view each sand pile they have. They should have different grades varying from very fine to very coarse. You don’t want either. You want something a little more coarse than their medium grade. But then again it’s not rocket science, so don’t get all worked up trying to find just the right grade. Actually, bagged swimming pool filter sand also works and should be available at discount home centers.
Once your wooden frame is on the ground and filled with sand, you’re ready to start sticking cuttings. Wet the sand the day before you start, that will make it possible for you to make a slit in the sand that won’t fill right in. In this propagation box you can do all kinds of cuttings, but I would start with the evergreens first. Taxus, Junipers, and Arborvitae.
Make the cuttings about 4″ long and remove the needles from the bottom two thirds of the cuttings. Dip them in a rooting compound and stick them in the sand about an inch or so. Most garden centers sell rooting compounds. Just tell them that you are rooting hardwood cuttings of evergreens.
When you make the Arborvitae cuttings you can actually remove large branches from an Arborvitae and just tear them apart and get hundreds of cuttings from one branch. When you tear them apart that leaves a small heel on the bottom of the cutting. Leave this heel on. It represents a wounded area, and the cutting will produce more roots because of this wound.
Once the weather gets colder and you have experienced at least one good hard freeze, the deciduous plants should be dormant and will have dropped their leaves, and you can now propagate them. Just make cuttings about 4″ long, dip them in a rooting compound and stick them in the bed of sand. Not everything will root this way, but a lot of things will, and it takes little effort to find out what will work and what won’t.
This is a short list of just some of the things that root fine this way. Taxus, Juniper, Arborvitae, Japanese Holly, Blue Boy/Girl Holly, Boxwood, Cypress, Forsythia, Rose of Sharon, Sandcherry, Weigela, Red Twig Dogwood, Variegated Euonymus, Cotoneaster, Privet, and Viburnum.
Immediately after sticking the cuttings thoroughly soak the sand to make sure there are no air pockets around the cuttings. Keep the cuttings watered once or twice daily as long as the weather is warm. Once winter sets it you can stop watering, but if you get a warm dry spell, water during that time.
Start watering again in the spring and throughout out the summer. The cuttings should be rooted by late spring and you can cut back on the water, but don’t let them dry out to the point that they burn up.
By fall you can transplant them to a bed and grow them on for a year or two, or you can plant them in their permanent location. This technique takes 12 months, but it is simple and easy.
Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter. Article provided by gardening-articles.com
So it’s spring. The snow has melted away and it’s started to
rain… a lot. Buds are sprouting on trees and the first signs
of green can be seen. You’ve been waiting all year for this
moment when you can once again return to your favorite stress
reducing hobby: gardening. As it is spring, there are some
things to remember to keep your garden looking fresh and well
manicured! Let the growing season begin!
It’s time to clear out the garden. Rake any leaves and remove
the debris. Loosen up the soil and get ready to plant your
roses, shrubs, perennials, annuals and also get ready to prune
those early blooming shrubs! Your soil is important. Without
taking good care of your soil, having a garden is pointless.
Remember: perennials are your best friend. You won’t need to
replant them every year and they’ll help your garden look
beautiful and colorful in the spring and summer like you long
for. Try choosing perennials that don’t require much maintenance
such as staking or division.
Flower bulbs also add flair to your garden. They can add color,
beauty and variety. Flower like tulips and daffodils look
wonderful randomly added throughout your garden. Lots of people
agree that tulips are the most beautiful flowers around! If you
didn’t bother to plant any bulbs last spring, be sure to do it
in the coming autumn.
Spring is also the most important time to attack those weeds! As
they’re just starting to grow and bloom, this is the best time
to attack because they have underdeveloped root systems and
haven’t fully reproduced yet. Getting a grip on your garden’s
weed problems in spring will be a savior in summer when
otherwise your garden would be covered with these horrible
things!
Enjoy and remember: color, variety and beauty!
To bag or not to bag, that is the question!
Many homeowners who take the time to cut their own grass are throwing away free fertilizer which could be utilized by their lawn to maintain itself during the growing season.
By bagging and getting rid of your grass clippings you are throwing away free fertilizer. Grass clippings contain many nutrients that when used by the soil enhances the lawn’s ability to fight disease, insects and drought. Generally speaking with weekly mowing a 1,000 square foot area will generate approximately 2 pounds of nitrogen from the clippings. By using a mulching mower you even decrease the size of the clippings making them even less noticeable.
If you leave the grass too long and then cut you create large areas where the clippings are too thick to be utilized by the lawn. These clippings should be raked up as summer heat can cause a greenhouse effect underneath and cause damage to the lawn.
By mowing 1-2 times a week at a height of 2 1/2 to 3 inches with a sharp mower blade, the clippings will begin to break down very quickly. Usually within a week the plant will utilize the nitrogen from these clippings and encourage new growth.
Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in the province of Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.
For more lawn care information, please visit http://fairyring.ca
This article is designed for gardeners living near Horsham Pa.
Planting Red Oak Trees Red Oak Trees. Whenever I think of Red
Oak Trees, I remember hunting when I was a kid and standing near
trees that were giants. Now every Red Oak tree I plant, I can
invision those days in the deep woods and those grand trees and
hope someone else will have that same enjoyment. These trees
will help you too in establish a desired vision to your
landscape.
Beyond their size, Red Oak Trees also fill important ecological
niches. They grow across broad ranges of forest and urban
conditions, finding much of North America to their liking.
Red Oak Trees need protection from deer, disease, insects, and
competing weeds and shrubs. The better your weed control the
better your trees will grow. When seedlings are planted, it best
to plant them with large spacings to allow more light to the
plant. If these trees are planted in shade, they tend to be more
open. Red Oak Trees are used around new construction because
they perform in a wide range of soil conditions. Threse trees
can take wetter soils than most trees and are many time found in
native areas near creek or river banks.If you have compacted
soil from new construction, we suggest smaller trees of 3-5′
height.
All people handling seedlings and small trees need to help with
the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of
water and need care which is often overlooked between the time
the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means
higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must
protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well
as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled
carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and
plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for
planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from
lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that
the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of
time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in
a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees.
Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees
need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn’t damp,
water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool,
damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold.
Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting
water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at
regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce
temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days
can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather.
Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will
make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good
planting conditions.
HOW TO PLANT
Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind.
If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should
be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed.
Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root
seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with
plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them
damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or
packed in ice or snow. Don’t freeze the trees. Competition from
weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to
survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this
competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot
before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown
of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush.
Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic
material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to
expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting
hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out
when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure
the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If
roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to
take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow
down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your
planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed,
the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling
shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more
protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable
openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to
help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably
dead. Now I know you are thinking,”I will place them in a
buckect of water and store them there until planting”. This will
not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of
minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen.
Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized
tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is
to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in
place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully
extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in
the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots.
Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don’t crush the roots by
jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake
curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more
soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is
not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets
that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly
anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have
the tree leaning and have to adjust the tree later. (Addition of
fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not
generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing
will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get
more production from a limited area by over planting and then
thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting ….
digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion
of the crop. Avoid these tree planting errors:
Tangled roots Planting too shallow Planting too deep Air pockets
Turned up roots (this is called J rooting) Planting trees that
are not tolerant of wet soils in poorly drained areas Planting
over rocks, septic tanks and leach fields, on sand mounds
CARE OF TREES FOLLOWING PLANTING Check periodically to be sure
that brush, grass and other vegetation is kept under control by
mowing, mulching, spraying or a combination of these treatments.
Always obtain advice from a licensed pest control advisor before
using chemicals. You ag extension agency may offer courses in
application of chemicals. Monitoring the appearance of your
trees will help you to detect signs of insects, diseases or
other problems. Apperances also help sell your product. Look for
foliage turning yellow, new foliage drooping or other signs of
poor health. It is easier to take successful corrective action
if the problem is detected early.
Over watering is a common problem in irrigated plantations. You
probably won’t need to water more frequently than every 7-10
days. Give your trees a thorough, deep soak and then let the
soil dry out before the next watering. This encourages the roots
to grow down in search of water. Frequent, shallow watering
encourages root growth near the surface and the trees are more
dependent on irrigation and are less windfirm. Animals can be a
major cause of damage to young trees. Porcupines, gophers, mice,
rabbits, deer and cattle are the most frequent source of damage.
In many states you may have to call your game commission and get
their recomendations on legal methods to protect your crop. In
our state, you can get help from the Pa. Game Commission to kill
deer that are a threat to your seedlings or obtain a free fence
to keep deer away from your seedlings. Over the years we have
lost more trees to mice than any other animal. Put rat baits out
on a regular basis. Over the years we have lost more seedlings
and plants to mice than any other culprit including deer and
rabbits combined. You an see more articles about the care of
trees plants and nursery stock at our web site
http://www.seedlingsrus.com other links are:
http://seedlingsrus.com/DeerDamageControl
http://seedlingsrus.com/Soils
http://seedlingsrus.com/PlantingTips.html
http://www.zone5trees.com/GrowingGrasses.html
Goldfish ponds are a beautiful addition to any garden and a
stunning focal point. Goldfish ponds have been admired in Asia
for centuries, especially in China and Japan. Today, you will
find goldfish ponds all over the world, including Europe and
North America. Since the Goldfish hails from a wild carp that
can live in cold water, the Goldfish will survive outdoors
during the winter even in colder parts of the world. In some
regions it is however advisable to house your fish indoors
during the roughest months since it can suffocate in a pond if
the ice freezes across the entire surface.
Goldfish can be kept in ponds as well as in aboveground pools.
It is recommended to plant your pond/pool since goldfish will
feel much safer in a planted environment. It will also be able
to hide among the plants in order to avoid predators. A lot of
animals like to chase and eat goldfish, including cats, birds
and raccoons. Sometimes plants are not enough to guard your fish
and you will be forced to cover the pond with netting during the
night. In an above ground pool with straight sides, the
predators will be unable to wade in and must instead perch
themselves at the edge of the pool when looking for prey. This
will usually be noticed by your Goldfish and it can seek shelter
deep down in the pool.
A planted goldfish pond is easier to maintain since the plants
will aid you in keeping up the water quality. Live plants can
use organic compounds excreted by fish as nutrition. This means
that the organic waste will be absorbed by the plant instead of
staying in the water and polluting it. Live plants will also
inhibit algae growth since plants and algae compete for the same
nutrients. If you still experience excess algae growth, you
might be feeding your Goldfish too much. If you feed your fish a
lot of food, they will subsequently produce a lot of waste and
there will be plenty of nutrients for plants as well as algae in
the water. Some algae are a natural part of any pond or
aquarium, but excessive algae growth should be counteracted
since it is unhealthy for the fish. Keep in mind that if you use
a chemical to kill the algae, or if an algaecide is involuntary
introduced to the pond, the dead and decaying algae will use up
a lot of oxygen and your Goldfish might suffocate and die. Using
natural methods to combat algae, such as plants, is therefore
recommended.
When you have filled your Goldfish pond you should treat the
water with a water conditioner if you use tap water containing
chlorine and/or ammonia to fill your pond. Check that the water
temperature in the pond is at least 60 o F before you add any
fish. A common beginner mistake is to add all the Goldfish
simultaneously to their new home. This will cause a rapid change
in water quality since the bacterial colonies that inhabit the
pond are too small to process the sudden increase in organic
waste. Instead, you should ideally add one or two fish and allow
the bacterial colonies to grow larger before you add any new
fish. This will naturally also depend on the size of your pond
and if you are using any type of filtration. In a large pond,
excess waste will be dilute by a very large amount of water and
therefore less likely to reach concentrations high enough to
harm you fish. Good filtration will also help removing organic
waste and other toxins from the water.
So, how much Goldfish can I fill my pond with? As a rule of
thumb, one Goldfish per 30 gallons is recommended, but this is
naturally a very imprecise ratio. As mentioned earlier, the
water quality is one of the limiting factors. Plenty of water,
developed bacterial colonies and good filtration will make it
possible for you to house a larger number of Goldfish. There are
three basic types of filtration: biological, mechanical and
chemical. Biological filtration will be taken care of by the
mentioned bacterial colonies. A mechanical filter will filter
the water through some form of filtering media where larger
debris will get caught. The most common form of chemical
filtration is the addition of carbon to the mechanical filter,
where the carbon will bind various types of toxins. Another
important factor to keep in mind when you decide how much fish
you wish to add to your pond is aeration. Fish require air to
breath and will suffocate in a poorly aerated pond, especially
if decaying plant matter consumes a lot of the dissolved oxygen.
In an open pond, there will however be a considerable gas
exchange between the water and the surrounding air. The larger
the surface area of your pond, the more oxygen will be brought
to the water. A large surface area will also make it easier for
the water to release carbon dioxide. Plants in the pond will
also produce oxygen and consume carbon dioxide. In some ponds,
this will however not be enough and if you want to be able to
house a large number of Goldfish some type of aeration is
recommended.